From the 16th Century to Mid-Century Modern
16th Century embroidered cope hood (possibly Italian) incorporated into a frontal for the high altar. Cathedral of All Saints, Albany, NY.
The Diocese of Albany Textile Treasures
A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to head North to the Albany area to continue my research. Here are some photos of the treasures I saw plus a special behind-the-scenes sneak peek at the set of vestments and paraments being made for the installation of the new Bishop of the Diocese of Albany. Look for more posts on my Instagram account.
New Vestments and Paraments for a New Bishop
Textile artisan Martha Munafo is doing something extraordinary at the Cathedral of All Saints in Albany. She has been tasked with making a new set of vestments and altar hangings for the consecration and ordination of Rev. Jeremiah Williamson as the tenth Bishop of Albany on February 24. The combination of solid red, solid blue, gold and red and gold and blue St. Margaret’s brocade from Perkins & Sons, Ltd., UK is striking and will work beautifully within the Cathedral’s dark brown stone interior. Skillfully produced machine embroidered Doves of the Holy Spirit will decorate the frontal and cope hood of the set. Martha was so kind to carve out time from her very busy schedule to show us around her workroom at the Cathedral as well as share with us many of their textile treasures.
Finished chasuble and dalmatic
Cope hood and frontal embroideries
High altar frontal being assembled
Closeup of the Dove of the Holy Spirit
Swiss Leather Work
One aspect of my research that I truly love is never knowing what I will find when I enter a sacristy. This was definitely the case when the Rev. Thomas Pettigrew opened the large sacristy drawer inside the 1759 church of St. George in Schenectady. I immediately knew I was looking at a set of mid-century modern vestments from the New York City retailer Carl Moser & Co. The vestments were made in Switzerland by M. Stadelmann & Co. in St. Gallen Switzerland and imported by Moser in the early 1960’s. They feature the distinctive leather applique work found on so many of the vestments sold by the firm.
Chasuble with silver leather appliques
Gold brocade chasuble with gold leather and velvet appliques
Gold brocade dalmatic with gold leather and velvet appliques
Black velvet chasuble with gold and silver leather appliques
Whippell Mowbray
Unfortunately, the number of vestment retailers has dwindled in recent years and as many of you know J. Wippell & Co., the church supply company founded in 1789 in Exeter, England has decided to close both its US and UK operations. I was glad to see that a good deal of their beautiful work is still in active use when I visited with Rich Angelo at St. Andrew’s in Albany. They own numerous frontals and paraments made by the company as well as some later 20th Century ones made in collaboration with A. R. Mowbray. In 1969 J. Wippell & Co (founded 1789) acquired a controlling interest in of A.R. Mowbray & Co. (founded in 1858). The variety of and quality of their work, from traditional to modern, will be missed.
White damask J. Whippell & Co. frontal with IHS Christogram and cross
White damask J. Whippell & Co. stole with metallic silver and gold embroidery
Lenten frontal Whippell Mowbray with Crown of Thorns, Spear and St. Andrew’s cross.
Lenten Whippell Mowbray burse and chalice veil
Caretakers for the Future
Altar Guild members Cathy Schunk and Sharon DeBonis are interested in making sure that the fine collection of vestments and paraments owned by St. Peter’s in Albany survive for the next generation. They showed me a treasured white frontlet made by Whippell and Co. in the late 19th/early 20th century whose silk damask had disintegrated beyond repair and had been carefully reapplied to sturdy new damask. Saving precious embroidery and sewing it onto new fabric is a tradition in the Church that goes back centuries. What was once too fragile to use had been be brought back to serve God and His people.
Frontal cabinet containing the white damask J. Whippell & Co. frontlet embroidered with grapes and Tudor rose motifs
Some of the more fragile embroidery is covered in fine netting to further protect it
Close up showing how the embroidery was removed with part of the original damask and reapplied to new fabric
Matching burse and chalice veil
Tiffany and J. M. Hall
I am fortunate to attend St. Michael’s Church on the Upper West Side of Manhattan whose interior was designed by Louise Comfort Tiffany and contains the largest Tiffany stained glass window in the world still in its original location plus several more windows, mosaics and lighting fixtures. But nothing could have prepared me for the interior of St. Paul’s in Troy. Everything was designed by Tiffany down to the hymnal boards whose Gothic finials are even depicted in the magnificent Vision of St. Paul apse window! Deacon Alicia Todaro had prepared for our visit by laying out a variety of stoles, burses and veils all made by the New York firm J. M. Hall. The exquisite designs of the fine embroidery were the perfect compliment to the gorgeous Tiffany interiors.
Lenten violet damask J. M. Hall superfrontal on the high altar with Tiffany mosaic reredos
Passiontide red damask J. M. Hall burse and chalice veil with IHS Christogram surrounded by palms
Green damask and velvet J.M. Hall superfrontal with trefoils containing IHS Christograms
White damask J. M. Hall burse with IHS Christogram surrounded by lilies and passion flowers
Gratitude and Thanks!
I am grateful to the Historical Society of the Episcopal Church for providing me with the support that allowed me to journey to the Albany area. Many thanks to Martha Munafo at the Cathedral of All Saints in Albany, Rich Angelo at St. Andrew’s in Albany, Fr. Tom Pettigrew at St. George’s in Schenectady, Cathy Schunk and Sharon DeBonis of St. Peter’s in Albany and Deacon Alicia Todaro, St. Paul’s in Troy for their time and enthusiasm. And also a heartfelt thank you to Richard DeSimone and Fred Talarico for housing, feeding and graciously accompanying me on all my appointments. If you haven’t signed up yet and would like to receive more research updates, click on the link below and join my email list.